Are Vintage Fountain Pen Inks Permanent?

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In this text, the author discusses the use of vintage pens and their compatibility with various inks. They focus on Pelikan 4001, Parker Quink, and Sheaffer Script inks, which are available during the retail life of the pen. Pigment inks and iron gall inks are considered permanent inks, with popular options including Platinum Carbon Black and Sailor Kiwa-Guro Black.

The author also discusses the reasons behind using old inks, such as nostalgia or seeking uncommon or uncommon options. They recommend Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black and Brilliant Black for vintage pens as decent permanent inks, but the waterproofness depends on the paper.

There are now inks that are both permanent and safe for fountain pens, but they must apply to the ISO 12757-2 standard and drench the paper. The safest inks for vintage fountain pens include Waterman Blue, Diamine’s blue inks, Pelikan 4001 Black and Blue, Parker Quink Black and Blue, Sheaffer Skripp Black, and Aurora. These inks are widely recognized for being safe to use, but may experience some color shed when the wash is applied over the ink.

For those using vintage fountain pens subject to barrel staining, vintage inks should be used without worry of staining. Most fountain pen inks are far from permanent due to their lack of purpose. However, there are document inks that are more permanent and water-resistant/proof. Bulletproof inks are dye-based, but they are made with special chemicals that cause the dyes to bind permanently with the cellulose fibers. These inks are intended for fountain pens but require periodic maintenance.

In conclusion, vintage pens can be suitable for certain inks, but it is important to consider the specific needs and preferences of each user.

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Are Fountain Pen Inks Water Resistant
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Are Fountain Pen Inks Water Resistant?

Fountain pen inks are generally not engineered for high water resistance, resulting in potential color loss when water is applied. The extent of ink shedding varies by ink brand and paper type, necessitating preliminary testing. This guide explores waterproof and water-resistant fountain pen inks, sharing experiences from water-testing various inks and highlighting favorites for reliability and permanence. Discovering waterproof inks can be challenging; however, JetPens has rigorously tested over a thousand options to identify those that resist washout effectively.

It's crucial to recognize that not all waterproof inks share the same level of water resistance, as their chemical compositions result in differing performances. While waterproof inks remain intact when exposed to water, water-resistant inks may exhibit slight fading. Given that 62% of fountain pen users prioritize water resistance, understanding these differences is essential. Water-resistant inks endure moisture but are not fully waterproof. Examples include Namiki/Pilot Standard Ink in Blue-Black, Blue, and Black.

Water resistance means certain inks will not wash away upon contact with water—a feature not commonly found in most fountain pen inks. Some inks offer medium resistance, where partial washout occurs, yet they still provide lasting impressions. Water-resistant inks are particularly beneficial for crucial documents or outdoor applications. Lubricated inks include additives that enhance writing fluidity.

Understanding the difference between waterproof and non-waterproof inks is vital for selecting the suitable product for your needs. Waterproof inks exhibit strong resistance without compromising color quality, providing a rich, saturated appearance. They are typically water-based, making most designs susceptible to water damage. A variety of fountain pen inks, categorized as either waterproof or water-resistant, are formulated from diverse components with unique advantages and limitations.

Modern fountain pen inks have surprisingly good water resistance even when not labeled as waterproof. Pigment-based inks are inherently more reliable in this regard, becoming virtually waterproof once dried. Three notable water-resistant inks include Sailor Kiwaguro (Black), Sailor Seiboku (Blue-black), and Platinum Pigment Rose Red (Red). For controlled experiments, Pelikan Royal Blue serves as an ideal standard.

Various retailers, such as Goulet Pens, offer collections of water-resistant inks, ensuring durable writing that withstands not only water but also chemicals and UV light, emphasizing quality and reliability in your writing tools.

Are Fountain Pen Inks Permanent
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Are Fountain Pen Inks Permanent?

Most fountain pen inks are not permanent, mainly because there hasn’t been a strong need for them to be. However, users sometimes seek permanent or waterproof options. A variety of permanent inks is available, and the array of colors continues to expand. Properly stored fountain pen ink can remain usable for dozens of years, with unopened bottles lasting over 60 years. The trend is more common in fountain pen inks compared to ballpoint inks, mostly due to their different chemical compositions.

For beginners, it’s advisable to avoid permanent inks until they have more experience. Permanent inks can complicate cleaning, as they may dry up inside the pen and create maintenance issues. The majority of contemporary fountain pen inks are not designed to be permanent, emphasizing the benefits of washable inks. While some inks exhibit greater water resistance, none can be considered entirely permanent since they are water-based, which is essential for proper fountain pen function.

Understanding ink cartridges is crucial for fountain pen users, enhancing performance, personalizing writing, and preventing leaks. If permanence is essential, gel pens, ballpoint pens, or specialized fountain pen inks may be preferred for daily writing tasks. Waterproof and permanent inks can pose challenges for novice users; they often require more frequent pen cleaning, can dry out quickly, and may have starting issues.

Although many inks lack permanence, there are specialized products developed recently that cater to the need for durability, using finely ground pigments. Pigment-based inks are mostly waterproof after drying and can be a good choice for those looking for lasting results. Users should always check labels for permanence; while some inks marketed as "Washable" exist, others are identified as waterproof and permanent fountain pen inks.

In summary, while the majority of fountain pen inks are not permanent, various options exist for those who require more durable inks, although careful consideration and knowledge about their properties are essential for optimal use.

Should You Use Vintage Fountain Pens
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Should You Use Vintage Fountain Pens?

Using vintage fountain pen inks, particularly with vintage pens, offers a unique charm and satisfaction. Filling a pen from the 1940s with era-appropriate ink creates a special connection to the past. Collecting these vintage inks can be enjoyable, and acquiring a vintage fountain pen is safest through reputable dealers to avoid fragile, damaged items. The appeal of vintage fountain pens also lies in their collectability and limited editions, providing a glimpse into history and exclusivity.

Conversely, modern fountain pens feature technological advancements that enhance the writing experience, stirring a long-standing debate among enthusiasts. Some collectors may aim to delve deeper into vintage pens and seek recommendations for specific models, such as the durable Parker 51 and 51 Special, which often require minimal restoration. The investment in vintage pens can be substantial, akin to today’s collectibles, as early 20th-century designs showcase exquisite craftsmanship.

When selecting a vintage fountain pen, consider factors like design and personal affinity. Understanding which vintage pens to explore and the reasons behind the fascination with antique pens adds to the experience. Vintage fountain pens hold value beyond monetary worth, representing a piece of history and craftsmanship. The nib significantly influences the pen’s character and writing experience.

Many vintage pens, potentially considered "user grade" by collectors, can remain functional with proper care. Well-made vintage pens, once restored, can last for another century. In earlier manufacturing, gold was widely used in various pen components, adding to their durability and appeal compared to modern substitutes.

However, vintage pens may have some drawbacks, such as fragility, complexities in cleaning, and occasional ink sweating, which can vary based on the pen's materials and storage history. In contrast, contemporary pens generally offer easier usability, lacking the concerns associated with vintage options. If collection for future monetary gain is the goal, it may be wise to initially invest in a higher-quality vintage pen rather than a cheaper option, ideally in the $100 range. Ultimately, the choice between vintage and modern depends on personal preferences and intended use.

Does Fountain Pen Ink Fade Over Time
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Does Fountain Pen Ink Fade Over Time?

Different fountain pen inks possess unique chemical compositions, impacting their longevity and fade resistance. Some inks are marketed as "archival" or "permanent," designed specifically to resist fading and deterioration over time. However, many inks experience noticeable fading within months when exposed to regular daylight, and they wash away easily when wet, with the risk of being removed almost instantly by bleach or other chemicals.

The primary concern regarding fountain pen ink is its tendency to fade similar to other writing mediums. Factors influencing the fading of fountain pen inks include the type of ink used, the paper quality, environmental conditions, and light exposure. Most fountain pen inks are dye-based, meaning they are composed of chemical components dissolved in water, making them more susceptible to fading as time progresses.

For those seeking more durable options, iron gall inks are highly recommended as they are permanent and do not fade. Additionally, brands like Noodler's offer "bulletproof" inks that guarantee permanence. It’s essential to avoid using India ink in fountain pens, as its properties can cause issues.

To enhance and preserve fountain pen ink artworks, it is advisable to use high-quality, heavy paper such as Bockingford, Arches, or Waterford Saunders, which absorbs the ink better. Proper storage in a cool, dry place is vital for maintaining ink quality, as expired or improperly stored ink can change properties over time.

Notably, while most fountain pen inks are dye-based and prone to fading, archival inks, such as specific iron gall and pigment inks from brands like Sailor and Platinum, are less vulnerable and maintain stability even under direct sunlight.

In summary, while nearly all inks will fade eventually, many can remain legible for years, even if the color diminishes. The rate and degree of fading largely depend on ink type, paper, and storage conditions. This understanding leads to the conclusion that while fountain pen inks can experience fading, they can still retain readability and artistic value with careful selection and storage.

Do Fountain Pens Get Better With Age
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Do Fountain Pens Get Better With Age?

In conclusion, fountain pens indeed improve with age. Over time, the nib becomes more flexible, the ink flow stabilizes, and the pen develops a comfortable, natural feel. This aging process not only enhances the pen's functionality but also contributes to its aesthetic charm. Notably, the analogy between corsets and fountain pens highlights their evolution through usage. Regular use, like that of a Pilot Metropolitan for daily tasks, showcases how fountain pens facilitate better handwriting thanks to their unique nib design, which encourages a relaxed grip and less pressure while writing.

As you continuously use a fountain pen, expect the nib to adapt closely to your writing style, possibly even developing a sharp oblique shape after several years. Frequent writing, whether for college assignments or office duties, showcases the ergonomic benefits of fountain pens, which significantly reduce hand fatigue and cramping, allowing for extended writing sessions. The variety of nib sizes and types enhances customization and expression in writing, setting fountain pens apart from standard pens.

One key advantage of fountain pens is their longevity. A well-maintained pen can last for decades, often improving with usage. As fountain pen enthusiasts note, the initial stiffness or scratchiness of a new nib transforms into a smoother experience through regular writing, a phenomenon often referred to as "pen patina." However, it’s important to handle the nib properly, as excessive force can damage it.

Ultimately, while nibs can experience wear over extended use, proper care ensures they maintain their quality and continue to enhance writing experiences. Thus, embarking on a fountain pen journey can be rewarding, reflecting personal style and functionality while promising lasting enjoyment.

How Do You Get Old Ink Out Of A Fountain Pen
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How Do You Get Old Ink Out Of A Fountain Pen?

To clean a fountain pen, immerse it in a mixture of cleaner and warm water for 24 hours, changing the solution every few hours. Use a bulb to flush out ink, then repeat the soaking and flushing process. If clogged, unscrew the pen, remove the cartridge, and use warm water to flush the feed and nib to remove any hardened ink. An ammonia and cool water solution can also help dissolve ink, followed by a cool water rinse. For a deeper clean, soak the nib and feed section in a warm water bath, ensuring the pen is fully submerged.

Let it soak for a variable time based on how long it’s been unused, but avoid allowing it to dry out. Soaking in warm, soapy water, like a Dawn dishwashing solution, is effective. New users might simply rinse the nib under running water or dip it in water, but a more thorough cleaning is advisable. For regular pens, replace the ink and rinse multiple times. Lastly, a drop of dish detergent can be added to the water, but ensure the pen is well-flushed afterward. Keep the pen soaking until the cleaning is satisfactory, preventing it from drying out during the process.

What Is The Oldest Fountain Pen Ink
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What Is The Oldest Fountain Pen Ink?

Herbin fountain pen ink, established in 1670, is recognized as the oldest fountain pen ink brand globally. The J. Herbin company initially produced "l’Encre de la Tete Noire," followed by "Perle des Encres" (The Jewel of Inks) and "l’Encre des Vaisseaux" (The Ink of Ships). Inks like Indian ink, created using soot or lampblack with gum arabic, have a rich history; it's known for its durability and resistance to fading, making it popular for writing and drawing. Historical ink types include iron gall ink, which predates fountain pens by centuries.

The first patent for a fountain pen was filed in England in 1809 by Frederick Fölsch, although earlier prototypes existed, dating back to approximately 974. Notably, the oldest known fountain pen, designed by Nicholas Bion, utilized air pressure and featured a bore for ink movement, becoming popular by the early 20th century. Obtaining the first American fountain pen patent was Peregrin Williamson in 1809.

Herbin’s significant contributions continue with the introduction of erasable pen ink and the evolution of their products over time. Amongst their noteworthy offerings include the anniversary inks corresponding to 350 years of ink production, possibly including violette pensee, perle noire, bleu myosotis, vert reseda, and red caroubier. The India Ink by J. Herbin was first produced in 1829 and is made from ingredients sourced from Punjab, India.

Herbin remains uniquely distinguished by utilizing all-natural dyes in its fountain pen inks, solidifying its standing as the pioneer in pen ink production. The origins of "The Jewel of Inks" trace back to a Paris shop in 1700, emphasizing Herbin’s illustrious heritage. Overall, Herbin encapsulates centuries of ink innovation and tradition within the fountain pen community.

How Can You Tell If A Fountain Pen Is Vintage
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How Can You Tell If A Fountain Pen Is Vintage?

Modern pens typically utilize cartridges or converters for ink storage, whereas vintage pens come in a wide range of configurations. Many vintage models incorporate bottled ink and a rubber sac for ink containment, with mechanisms named for the method of filling the sac. Upon searching "Vintage Esterbrook," I identified my pen as from the J Series, later distinguishing between J, LJ, and SJ models with help from a Fountain Pen Network discussion. There's significant demand in the vintage market for brands like Parker, Sheaffer, Waterman, and Esterbrook, solidifying their status as desirable collectible fountain pens.

A vintage pen is generally considered one manufactured before the widespread adoption of fountain pen design, particularly those from around mid-1934 onward, when Parker began marking their products with date codes. Whether you're looking to start a collection or simply want a unique writing instrument, understanding what to look for is essential when purchasing a vintage fountain pen. It's advisable to seek pens with undamaged barrels, functional filling mechanisms, and quality nibs.

To pinpoint authentic pens, conduct thorough research on your preferred brand and model, paying attention to distinctive characteristics or markings. The process of buying vintage fountain pens can be intimidating due to choices between well-known and less recognized brands, value assessment, and potential pitfalls. An effective approach to gauging authenticity involves inspecting the nib and ink barrel, as well as assessing signs of wear.

Defining a vintage pen can be subjective, typically indicating pens that are 40-100 years old, but age and quality can vary. New old stock may appear pristine, while others may show wear. When evaluating vintage fountain pens, three critical factors to consider include quality, condition, and age, with rarity also adding to their desirability. Ultimately, a pen is vintage if it surpasses your age and maintains high quality, though the exact definition may evolve over time.

How To Know If Fountain Pen Ink Is Bad
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How To Know If Fountain Pen Ink Is Bad?

To determine the usability of older fountain pen inks, a simple method involves stirring the ink with a toothpick to see if any particles adhere. If sediment is present, the ink should be avoided for fountain pens as it may indicate issues with contamination or the pen itself. Generally, fountain pen inks do not spoil unless there's contamination, the exception being iron-gall inks, which can develop insoluble precipitate due to oxidation. Visual cues for spoiled ink include mold on the surface or bottle walls, as well as sediment.

Anecdotal evidence suggests that fountain pen inks can last between 10 to 60 years, with unopened bottles having a longer shelf life compared to opened ones. Even opened bottles can remain usable for many years, provided they remain uncontaminated. While inks lack an official expiration date, they will eventually become unusable depending on storage conditions and usage, with proper care extending the life of quality inks.

Certain manufacturers warn against using their inks in fountain pens, and it's important to verify their compatibility. Signs of deteriorating ink include drying out, visible mold or slime, and an unpleasant odor. Leaving ink in a fountain pen is generally safe, as modern inks are not considered toxic; the small quantities involved during use pose no health risks.

To maintain your fountain pen, it’s crucial to manage ink quality. Inks exhibiting sliminess, mold, or foul smells should be discarded immediately, with the smell of rotten eggs being a particularly strong contamination indicator. Additionally, testing ink with dip pens, which require more frequent dipping due to their thickness, can help assess its condition.

The appearance of sediment or floating matter in ink signifies it may have gone bad, making it unsuitable for use. A quick test to check ink quality includes writing a few words and attempting to smudge them shortly after; quality ink should smudge easily. Furthermore, it's advised to consider ink filtration methods if mold spores are a concern, ensuring the inks used are clean.

In conclusion, being proactive in checking ink conditions and understanding indicators of spoilage can greatly enhance the experience and longevity of your fountain pen. Avoid using inks that appear compromised, and adhere to proper care guidelines for optimal performance.

What Makes A Fountain Pen Different
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What Makes A Fountain Pen Different?

In the realm of fountain pens, the uniqueness manifests through both the pens and their inks. Older inks, while not always the boldest in color, offer intriguing hues with pleasant shading and occasional sheen. A fountain pen utilizes a metal nib to deliver water-based ink to paper, differing from traditional dip pens by incorporating an internal reservoir that negates the need for repeated dipping. This mechanism, which allows ink flow via capillary action, distinguishes fountain pens from ballpoint or gel ink alternatives, as they write through the pen’s weight rather than requiring pressure.

Fountain pens feature various types reliant on distinct filling mechanisms. For instance, cartridge/converter pens accommodate removable cartridges, whereas piston-fill and vacuum-fill pens possess built-in systems to draw ink. Inside a fountain pen lies a compartment designed to hold a miniature inkwell, lending to its name and functionality, as ink self-supplies through the internal reservoir.

A pen’s aesthetic appeal can also be enhanced by using precious materials, such as gold or incorporating gemstones, along with intricate artisan techniques. Fountain pens utilize a variety of inks, including water-based and special pigment inks suited for their design. The functional difference between fountain pens and ballpoint pens lies predominantly in their ink types; fountain pens flow smoothly without pressure, whilst ballpoints utilize oil-based inks.

Navigating the wide variety of fountain pens leads to exploring diverse filling systems and nib types, from cartridge and piston fillers to more specialized mechanics. Materials used in construction, like steel, iridium, gold, palladium, and titanium, contribute to varied properties and performance. An essential consideration when selecting a fountain pen is the nib size, with options ranging from fine to broad, where nib dimensions considerably affect the writing experience. This exploration into fountain pens highlights the intricate factors that make them both practical and artistic writing instruments.

Can You Use Old Fountain Pen Ink
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Can You Use Old Fountain Pen Ink?

Unopened fountain pen ink bottles typically have a much longer shelf life than opened ones, potentially lasting decades if stored properly. Vintage inks can still be used for writing, as long as they remain uncontaminated. The allure of old inks lies in nostalgia and the uniqueness of using something no longer manufactured. However, it’s crucial to remember that not all inks are compatible with vintage fountain pens, which may have distinct material properties that interact differently with certain inks.

To ensure a safe and enjoyable writing experience, it is advisable to use inks specifically formulated for fountain pens, such as those from reputable manufacturers like Waterman, Sheaffer, and Aurora. These inks tend to be safe for all types of pens. It's also important to consider how quickly you will use your ink to avoid potential issues with drying or contamination.

The lifespan of fountain pen ink typically ranges from 10 to 60 years, with opened bottles still usable for many years if handled hygienically. However, opened inks are more susceptible to mold and evaporation, which can alter their performance. Signs of spoilage include visible mold or sediment.

While older inks can be rewarding to use, they often lack water resistance when dry and may smear if they come into contact with moisture. Some ink manufacturers suggest discarding any ink older than a year, which can be overly cautious given the longer lifespans many inks exhibit.

Though it is technically possible to return used ink to the bottle, it's generally ill-advised due to risks of contamination. If the ink has thickened over time, adding a small amount of distilled water can improve its consistency, but this should be done cautiously and not directly in the original bottle. Following specific guidelines regarding the use of vintage inks can facilitate a pleasurable writing experience without the worry of damaging your fountain pen.


📹 The Best Fountain Pens to Use With High-Maintenance Inks

Do you avoid shimmer, sheen, or pigment? If so, you’re missing out! Drew’s going to tell you about some fountain pens in this …


23 comments

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  • I own Pilot Metropolitans, Lamy Safaris/Al-Stars, a Pilot VP, and a TWSBI Eco, and the Pilot Metro seems the best type for handling shimmer inks. One thing I only just started doing is shaking up my shimmering ink, then waiting for a few moments so it just starts to settle, and then dip the pen just slightly into the ink and fill it so your pen takes in a little less shimmer. The difference in glitter on the paper isn’t too noticeable, and it seems to help pens go longer without clogging. Happy writing, everyone!

  • My Pilot Kakuno Clear with a medium nib does just fine with both shading and shimmer inks. The whole thing comes apart easily for cleaning and is less than $15. I like the Platinum Preppy, but I don’t have the attention span for eyedropper conversion anyway. I fill everything with a blunt syringe anyway, so cleaning and reusing an ink cartridge gives me an even easier solution for tricky inks. I could not even being to list all the shimmer and shading inks, including several from Organic Studios, that I’ve cleaned out of that pen.

  • I only use shimmer inks in Noodler’s pens. The feeds are deep and wide and never clog. Plus, the flex is a nice little cherry on top of the shimmering, sometimes sheening, goodness. I also have a turquoise Pilot Metropolitan dedicated to R+K Klara SketchInk. They go so well together! As far as cleaning goes: I’m not so good at it. If only my favorite online pen shop had some sort of small, dedicated cleaning brush for fountain pens. Something in a toothbrush like form factor. I think that would really help me out a lot.

  • Many of us have the “pen case of no return” where we leave pens that have lost their place in a rotation. There is a special joy of uncapping a shelved pen and finding ink that is still flowing in it. My OS Nitrogen is in a Jinhao but I might look to my benched Preppies when I want to play with other temperamental inks!

  • I do prefer TWSBI Diamond 580 for my sheen and shimmer inks since they just seals so nicely I don’t need to worry if I can’t use up the fill within certain period of time, which for a piston filling pen, use it up means over a dozen of pages and it’s literally impossible for me (EF nib). Plus, the disassemble friendly design is a bliss when using high maintenance inks. Take it apart carefully, toss the parts in an ultrasonic tank, 5 min later everything is good as new. Although I do not recommend take out the nib and feed too frequently since this will wear them out eventually, but it is just somehow satisfying to do so

  • I have tried shimmer inks in just about every pen I own–not without some regret, admittedly–and my unexpected fave turned out to be the Opus 88 Omar. Dedicated eyedropper pen that can be fully disassembled for cleaning, ink chamber with huge capacity that can be sealed off to prevent drying out, and their broad and 1.4 stub nibs are fabulous for showing off shimmer (that stub in particular OMG–perfection!). And of course I have to put in a vote to include Benu on the small businesses list. I mean if ever there was a pen MADE for shimmer XD They have easily replaceable nib units and converters, and several of their models are excellent candidates for eyedropper conversion.

  • I have a Lamy Nexx and a Kaweco Sport, both with broad nibs and shimmering inks from Ferris Wheel Press. The ink in the Lamy is somewhat shimmery, it’s more of a glittery pink and gives no issues. The one in the Kaweco is heavy shimmer, it’s Jade Sunlit if I remember correctly. It needs more shaking to get all the shimmer out but doesn’t give me troubles either. I use these pens relatively often. I use these brands because in the EU they’re cheap, easy to find & easy to get converters and nibs if I need them. I love Platinum but fine nibs wouldn’t show off the shimmer, and their converters as you said are expensive. Kaweco accepts standard international which is a plus in my book. I love shimmering and glittery inks, and so far no problems.

  • When you use a Platinum Preppy, I convert the cartridge which comes with the pen. After I’ve used up the cartridge, of course, because one shouldn’t waste ink. When it’s time to clean the feed, twisting and pulling gently gets the preppy feed off and you clean away — gently, of course. Even cheaper than the Preppy are those disposable fountain pens. Once the ink is used up, you can twist and pull the feed and clean and reuse. I’ve found that if you have a good disposable which feeds nicely, you can keep it in ink practically forever.

  • Super worthwhile instruction! Goulet Pens also carry Jnhaos. The pens of that company are eminently replaceable at a reasonable cost. I have one which is my Platinum Carbon pen. Eventually, I’ll have to replace it for one reason or another . . . but, so long as the market is what it is, meh. It’ll be fine. I have a J. Herbin shimmer ink that I am going to try in a brand with an “ultra flex” nib with ebonite feed. I hate that pen for how it exposes my weaknesses! But, it might be the pen for the shimmer. Thanks, Drew, for a fine exposition!

  • I’ve dedicated my Pilot Custom 823 to the Sailor Seiboku pigmented ink for the 4th year now. I keep a simple water flush between every 1 to 2 fill and 1 disassemble clean every 6 to 9 months. So far no problem at all and it remains as my fav combo for daily use. Still trying to find a pen in my collection to dedicated it to the Sailor Kiwaguro. Tried the Lamy 2000 for a while, but still not a fan of the nib feel. At this point I might end up getting another 823 for the Kiwaguro🤔

  • Thanks for another great article, Drew! When I saw the title of this article, I pretty much knew where you were heading… I keep a Platinum Preppy (converted to eyedropper) inked with Noodler’s Bay State Blue. The pen is horribly stained, but I could always soak it in a mild bleach solution to restore the pen (to its original clarity)… but why bother?

  • Excellent advice. I can’t speak to all pens or all inks, there are too many, but the ink I had the most trouble cleaning was ESSRI. Which was my fault because it says to clean and flush more regularly than I did – combined with, I suspect, slightly alkaline water – it appeared to clean better with a mild acid (I used a water solution of ascorbic acid) potentially ruling out alkaline pen flushes. I could be wrong. The rest of the troublesome inks seem to depend on the capping of the pen. The TWSBI seems especially well suited because for a cheap-ish pen it has a great cap. I’ve used all but ESSRI (inc carbon pigments) in a TWSBI with little or no problem cleaning. Similarly the Platinum slip and seal caps seem complimentary to their pigment inks. I ended up going ultrasonic and sacrificing a converter during my ESSRI ink months (a pleonasm and it was during a lockdown), it was a reasonable, cheap, Waterman pen but not a screw cap. Aside from my lackadaisical maintenance I blame the pen’s cap. If some manufacturer could have the permanence and durability of a carbon ink with the colour and shading of Diamine Oxblood I’d be there for it (although Graf von Faber Castell garnet red is a cm away on a colour chart minus the striking permanence). So, basically, ‘a pen with a proven good cap & maintenance’ plus, in my case, listen to ESSRI’s actual advice (other ink manufacturers may apply).

  • Very timely article for an issue that appears to have arrested the general fountain pen public for years. There is absolutely no need to fear pigmented, bulletproof, iron gall, or even india (last one with caveats) ink for your pen if you understand basic chemistry and have a pen you can fully disassemble for proper full cleaning each and every time you refill, which for me is on the order of every three or four days. For utility fountain pens that see regular use in the work place that must be archival, water proof, and use regular paper they cannot be beaten!

  • I’ve been really surprised by which pens like which inks. Sometimes brands don’t play well together, I think. And sometimes you get a pen who’s a really good sport. I have a conklin with an omniflex nib for whom the entire inkvent calendar is no hassle whatsoever. Sometimes you just gotta give it a shot I think. (That said I wish I hadn’t put noodler’s ottoman rose in my Aurora… it’s haunting it like a ghost.)

  • Drew: I am one of those people who like to use a pen, in the color of ink that is in it. Can you guys do a segment on which affordable pens have the widest color choices? I am waiting for Buttered Popcorn to be restocked. I would love a Yellow pen that is dedicated to it. Already have the Green Liliput with Spearment ink. (your fault).

  • Due to regulatory reasons I need to use permanent inks if I want to use a fountain pen. This is why I use pigmented inks in my work fountain pens. When choosing the fountain pens that I use for this purpose I had to important categories that my fountain pens need to fullfill: nib-feed-replacements needed to be available and cleaning needed to be easy. Finally I chose a TWSBI 580. Easy to clean by unscrewing the nib-section. I clean the nib section with a ball syringe and the piston with a syringe and a blunt cannula. My second fountain pen for work is a Pilot capless aka vanishing point. Same cleaning procedure due to its cartridge/converter construction.

  • I know that I want a TWSBI for this type of ink, but my question relates to the filler type. I am trying to decide between the 580ALR and the VAC700R. Which filling mechanism, piston or vacuum works best with shimmer/sheen inks. My head is saying the VAC as it would get more particles in a draw at once?

  • I was actually shocked how not scary Organics Studio Walden Pond was once I actually gave it a try. I bought a Lamy Safari I didn’t mind getting ruined but so far after a week of writing there has been no issues, with the pen or with the ink smearing. Well, apart from some dye near the nib from my fill which I can not for the life of my clean off. Oh well.

  • I have a Lamy Safari With a fine nib….which writes waaaay too thick. Writing small or writing slowly results in lines that are too thick or too blotchy. I’m trying to achieve very thin and almost a wispy calligraphic quality. I’m concerned that Lamy XF nibs will also write too thick. Should I be moving over to Japanese fountain pen brands? Should I be using a different ink? (Currently, I’m using Lamy cartridges) I’m also looking for contemporary styled pen like the Lamy 2000…but I’m concerned it too will write too thick for my liking. Any suggestions with contemporary styling that writes very thin?

  • Do you think pigmented ink concentrate over time if they sit in your pen for a while? That is, does the concentration of pigment increase as the ink dries out some, thus clogging more or being more difficult to clean? ALSO, what about iron gall inks? Also “high maintenance”? FYI: ALL Organic Studios inks NEVER DRY. Their reputation is well deserved….

  • Hey guys, I’ve came across this website recently and so far I’ve enjoyed all the content. I settled on buying a Pilot Custom 823 since i do sit through long writing sessions practicing spencerian handwriting and journalling. Could you please reccomend some high quality burgundy inks? I’ve learned that Montblanc doesn’t peoduce Bordeaux anymore….and in Romania we don’t have dedicated pen stores for me to test inks….so I’m perusal Diamine Oxblood, iroshizuku Momiji which I’m unsure how it looks in real life….I don’t mind ordering from other countries if i can’t find it here. Thank you, I’m open to all sugestions.

  • Thanks for this! I have married my TWSBI ALR 580 to Jacques Herbin Vert d’Atlantide and it is working out very nicely so far. (Since you didn’t say it in the article — it’s in other Goulet articles — I will here, for anyone else foolish enough to completely disassemble their TWSBI: LITHIUM grease on the inside, not the included silicone grease!)

  • Wouldn’t it be great if we could just forget about shimmering inks? I think ink makers need to focus on doing new things like Sailor’s chromo shading inks that give writing character without the need for shimmer particles that settle in seconds. And let’s not forget the hassle of agitating the pen converter, only to find that the shimmer doesn’t flow into the nib because the feed is still loaded with enough ink to write a paragraph worth of words. And don’t even get me started on trying to use a pointed dip nib for calligraphy with shimmer ink. It’s all fun and games until the shimmer disappears after just a few words even with ink still left on the nib. Sure, they make $200 magnetic stirrers to keep shimmer inks moving so the particles stay in suspension but if you need a new contraption to produce consistent shimmer, then maybe that should tell you something. Honestly, give me a nice shading or sheening ink any day. A specific pen will not make shimmer inks any better either unless they have a built in agitator or some sort of sci-fi function that disables gravity 🙂

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